- How to substitute successfully
- Searching for yarns on YarnSub
- Book Explorer — Knitting and crochet books of 2016
- Past newsletters
- Cashmere — How to choose a quality cashmere yarn.
- Mercerized cotton — A fresh look.
- Silk — How to get the most out of this luxurious fiber while avoiding disaster.
- Superwash — Is superwash the only machine-washable wool?
- Untreated wool — Why you should consider untreated wool for your next project.
- Blown yarns — Are they any good?
- Ply structure — Differences between plied yarns.
- Twist — The difference between Z-twist and S-twist, and what it means for your knitting and crocheting.
- KFSB — A neater, easier alternative to a KFB increase.
- Make 1 (M1) increase — Right-leaning, left-leaning, knit side, purl side.
- Compendium of yarn joins — Methods of adding new yarn and when to use them.
- Adding twist to splitty yarns — A simple change to stop yarns untwisting as you work them.
- K2Tog-L — The only left-leaning decrease you'll ever need.
- Double short rows — Two short rows at the same stitch for interesting design possibilities.
- Capturing the colors of a skein — An unusual way to knit a multicolored yarn.
- Final bind-off stitch — Tidy up the bind-off corner.
- Neater intarsia — A simple fix for untidy stitches around a vertical color change.
- Knitting backwards — A way to avoid purling in stockinette stitch.
- "Twist-and-Weave" — Add a new color without leaving holes or knots.
All about gauge
- How to knit a swatch and why we strongly recommend swatching
- Getting gauge — Why you should wet block gauge swatches.
- Three balls or four? — What you should know about the way gauge affects yardage.
- Stretch-blocking — How far can you stretch a knitted piece without it looking awful?
- Anna Feldman — The magic of learning to knit.